To understand why not to use retinol after microneedling it is best to define what it is. Microneedling is also called collagen induction therapy. It is a treatment to help reduce scars, stretch marks and fine lines. Before microneedling I recommend cleansing and resurfacing the skin by doing Chemical Peels first. Then if needed move on to microneedling. I tell my clients I can’t revive dead skin so let’s get rid of it and start fresh. I also recommend a good skincare regime before, during and after treatments. Along with other essential skin care products you are going to want to invest in a Growth Factor Serum. Growth Factor Serums tend to be pricey. If you are going to the expense of microneedles you should invest in good growth factors. If you want advice on your skin regime you can contact me at Fifth and Main Esthetics for a consultation.
Microneedling with growth factor
Your body produces growth factors(G.F) to help heal and rejuvenate your skin. As we age our growth factor diminishes. So adding a topical application of G.F. is a good idea. I like NeoCutis Bio Serum Firm, Skin Medica Growth Factor TNS Essential Serum or Sente GF Serum. Growth Factors help rejuvenate and give you firmness to your skin. Platelet Rich Plasma known as PRP facial rejuvenation, is often done with Microneedle. Yet it usually drives your cost up approximately double. Microneedles in the office run from $275 to $500.00 a treatment. So if you add 50%-100% the add on cost of PRP gets to be unrealistic for most. Microneedling is a procedure done in office by a trained medical provider. FDA has cleared a few medical microneedling such as SkinPen, Ecplipse & RejuvaPen.
Microneedling pen at home
I struggle with the prospect of using a microneedling pen at home. I get called in to the exam rooms at the derm office to consult with clients on the hazards of at home microneedling pen quite often. They usually do too much or too often and end up damaging the skin tissue. There is the whole sanitizing process and how it cleans and sanitizes the device. Plus needles do not stay strong or in the same shape for long. The needles should be straight to do the procedure. 
You can’t tell me that at home roller devices keep their shape with every use.
If they are not keeping their shape then you could be damaging tissue. As is with professional treatments, complications can happen. I have seen at home microneedle pens such as Dr. Pen or Ora, yet as a lic. professionals we are not supposed to use non FDA Microneedles. Due to liability reasons we are now required to use one of the FDA approved microneedle medical devices.
I have tried the Dr Pen microneedling from Amazon and it seems pretty cool. Some of the needles seem a little wonky. I am not sure how safe it is but I can get the job done and have not had a problem. But keep in mind I have done many of Microneedles over the years on clients, my friends and myself.
I love microneedles and recommend it if you do not have a contraindication for the treatment. It’s in my top 2 of recommended treatments especially for anti age and building collagen.
Microneedling Treatments
Microneedling is a treatment that creates a controlled wound to remodel the skin by creating microscopic channels in your skin. This healing process helps increase collagen and elastin over several months.
Treatments are usually in a series of 3 to 6 depending on the depth of the damaged tissue and performed over 3 to 6 weeks. Overtime subtle changes take place to help return the skin tissue to a healthier and better appearance. Like any procedure that involves a controlled wound there are contraindications on who can have the procedure, leave that to your medical provider.
Microneedling Contraindications
Contraindications include but not limited to people with keloid scars, scleroderma, collagen, vascular diseases, cardiac abnormalities, a homographic disorder or hemostatic dysfunction, active bacterial or fungal infection, patience with a history of eczema or psoriasis, herpes simplex infections, diabetics or wound healing deficiencies, immunosuppressive therapy, and skin with a presence of raised moles or warts on the treatment area, among other possible contraindications.
The risk of contraindications or possible infection from a procedure such as microneedling is possible. It’s important to follow guidelines for post procedure. A typical guideline for post procedure
- Avoid excessive sweating, exercise, and direct exposure to the sun for 72 hours
- Do not pick, peel, or scratch the skin
- Avoid using a sauna or steam room
- No exposure to chlorine (swimming pools, ect)
- Discontinue the use of retinol after microneedling, as well alpha and beta hydroxy acids for 72 hours
- Do not wax area for 7 days
- Wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily and be sure to reapply approximately every 2 hours. YES…every 2 hours for optimal protection from UVA and UVB and hopefully your SPF has IR protection as well.
I hope you took note that retinol after microneedling and alpha hydroxy acids are not recommended for more than 72 hours.
After Microneedling
Here is what you can expect after a microneedling procedure. You will most likely have erythema / redness of the skin. Some mild swelling in areas. You may feel warm like a sunburn. A tightening feel may occur. Some areas will scab from the creation of the channels made to the dermis. Most clients experience little discomfort. The forehead seems to be a common place to have some discomfort. Everyones tolerable level is different, I ask my clients to let me know if they are uncomfortable as I can always adjust the settings.
The forehead seems to be a common place to have some discomfort. Immediately after the procedure I rinse their skin with water and apply a medical grade hyaluronic acid serum such as Neocutis Hyalis.
Retinol after microneedling
I love retinol, AHA, BHA, Vit C Serum with L ascorbic acid among other great products. But there is a time and place in a regimen, and it is not right after doing a microneedle procedure. I recommend you wait until the skin heals before using retinol after microneedling and do a test patch area of Retinol, AHA or BHA in an area first. In fact, you should wait 48 hours at least after testing to make sure there is no irritation. If in doubt seek a professional that has training in the dermatology field with years of experience. I would love to be that person if I can help you contact me at Fifth and Main Esthetics.
